THE AUTUMN WINTER 2018 COLLECTION EMBODIES BOTH THE MASCULINE AND THE FEMININE, WITH RELAXED SILHOUETTES AND LOOSE CUTS – RECALLING THE FREER FITS OF THE 1920S WHEN WOMEN ABANDONED THE CORSET IN FAVOUR OF A MORE LONG, LEAN LOOK.
Silhouettes take cues from British poet and novelist Vita Sackville-West, whose decidedly androgynous approach to dress and penchant for men's clothes, inspired Virginia Woolf's gender-bending aristocrat Orlando. There's also undertones of Diane Keaton's Annie Hall and François Truffaut's Jules et Jim, with wide-legged trousers and roomy fits.
Mohair jumpers are purposefully loose, echoing the baggy bohemian style of Truffaut's Catherine. The dusty lavender top worn with a pencil skirt add an essential element of femininity, ready to be contrasted with the more masculine pieces in the collection. Although men's clothing forms a reference point, this is a looser take on it, with no signs of severe tailoring or buttoned up, restrictive shirts in sight. As with all of the J&M Davidson pieces, these are clothes designed for the woman that dresses to please herself, and not another.
The collection's colour palette is a set of muted hues – brown, camel and taupe – contrasted by flashes of red and orange. The smoky grey is a new colour for the Autumn Winter 2018 bags – perfectly suited for the relaxed, oversized new styles. Caviar grain leather makes for softer, slouchier bags, lined with suede, while structure is added in the form of stained cut edges. Leopard print hair on calf leather and python introduce pattern, which breaks up the discreetness of the muted overtones.